……………………..The DIAMOND THEME continued with a crepe dress and a single button jacket. Again, all of the shaping was done with the bias seams of the diamonds only. The diamonds also brought your eye towards the center which was very figure flattering…………………Doesn’t Giselle have a marvelous SMILE! It really was her personality………and her sweet French accent….OH LA LA!
…………………These Geometric pieces were a true challenge……….They looked so simple but every seam was responsible for the fit of the jacket. We made many muslin jackets to get the lines and fit just right before we cut it in the fabric. There were no additional seams or darts. Everything had to be precision….razor sharp!!….That was all achieved with only the seams of the diamond……Again, the gold ball zipper pull became a signature of these jackets. The black resin Door Knocker earrings also became an important accessory. For me, the RED TROUSERS made the look runway.
……………………..The STRIPED WOOL CREPE TOPPER in BLACK and WHITE over a Red sweater and Red Crepe pants…….made a strong statement……..The addition of the Anne Klein STRIPED SHOES was the icing on the cake! They were pieced together leather. Working with Andrea Pfister, by this time was symbiotic. We had worked together for 16 years of my 20 years at AK. We worked very close on creating the shoe collection. I would send him the colors and fabric swatches of the collection and sketches of my ideas of what I envisioned of both the clothes and shoes….anything to get his creative juices flowing!…Due to when the shoe collection had to open, and my availability to spend two weeks in Positano working with Andrea, the shoes were developed well before the clothes! I had to do a lot of pre-planning on what the collection would be. I could always add some styles later if it was absolutely necessary or a brilliant idea happened. We could always rush new samples through……The crepe coat was perfectly matched all the way around….including the lining!…….Giselle above, was a fantastic French model….. She wasn’t beautiful as the Super Models were, but she had an incredible look, an infectious smile, a wonderful figure, and could move like very few could. Designers loved her and she was booked by many to do looks on, and of course all of the shows…..When a designer did looks on her she brought the clothes to life because of her animation, and the way she understood the clothes and how they should move………She was inspiring……It was just second nature for her to STRIKE A POSE!…………………VISUAL EXCITEMENT!!!!
……………………The use of BANDING could be interpreted in many ways………The two sweater dresses above are good examples. The solid Black dress to the left used banging to create a bare back with an “H” in the form of the straps. The dress to the right uses banding to divide colors, as Mondrian did in his paintings………The models are wearing triple link black resin earrings, bracelets, and thong flats with RED triangular pieces of leather on the instep are on the model at the right.
………………..Stripes as a detail became an important theme on the Spring 1991 collection…..The wool crepe suit at the left on Christy was perfectly cut and perfectly executed. The jacket had hidden very flat buttons which buttoned the opposite way they normally do….They buttoned towards the body so the front was completely flat. The back of the jacket was exactly like the front with the Black racing stripe down the center back and the red banding continued from the front. This became Sak’s 5th Ave’s Spring Ad in their National Campaign and Vogue Magazine…….The fashion director LOVED this suit and bought it for herself…..The Lipstick Red short jacket at the right, with the cut away bottom, was very simple….and the hardest jackets to create. It closely followed the shape of the body, and had a gold ball zipper pull that my jewelry company made…….The crepe pant, had a front zip and a side racing stripe. The pant could also be worn with the jacket to the left, and many other things on the Spring collection. These were bold clothes, and for women who wanted to make a strong statement.