“JULY 08 DESIGNER GALLERY”

………………..Animal prints have their highs and lows in popularity in the world of fashion…….but…….they have become ICONIC, and never really go out of style. Whether you use the print as an accessory or a full garment they are always attention getters…..but…….you must be selective in what you buy…….There are many many very cheap and tawdry looking animal prints and sometimes it’s the print itself….or just a matter of the fabric they are printed on….or the STYLE!….I have always been very careful about selecting beautiful, very detailed animal prints….99% of them either came from print lines in Italy or were developed for me exclusively by Italian companies. The one above actually was inspired by a printed Hair Calf large shoulder bag I did at AK. I sent a skin to ETRO and he created the print. I used this archival print, and had it reproduced in China on two different fabrics. The SAFARI JACKET was a cotton stretch, single breasted front. The button was a beautiful faux Horn as you can see in the photo. It had 4 patch pockets and buttoned flaps. The bottom pockets were side entry. The sleeves had tabs with two buttons for adjustability. It had a wing collar with a back half stand and a self tie belt….The print blouse was in georgette. It had a button front, a stand collar, a fuller sleeve and side slits….Both of these items became reorders……..The solid BRUSHED COTTON jacket above the blouse had mixed reviews. The style and colors were VERY EUROPEAN. The colors were actually deeper than what they look above, but I can never seem to capture the colors correctly. I don’t think many women understood such dark colors for July, but for me these were transition colors, Indian Summer colors, that would work in Sept, Oct. and right through until late spring. They were very deep and rich colors……SIENNA, PURPLE and OLIVE. Instead of a normal set in sleeve….the body seams at mid shoulder was where the sleeve began. It had a half raglan. To give room for the shoulders I added pleats at the top and again at the sleeve cuff. It had inset band pockets. The jacket had a wonderful figure 8 shape. It was definitely a  fashion forward jacket, but maybe too advanced for many QVC customers……..The SUEDE BLAZER was another story all together, and was very popular. It had a front and back yoke and body seams. The pockets were in these seams. The large flaps were faux. It had a three button front and buttons on the sleeves……The unusual stand out detail on this jacket was the double row contrast stitching. I used a heavier thread like the one they use on handbags so it really stood out. I chose some what tonal threads…..a grayed ivory on the brown and a paler moss on the moss…..Using suede was still reasonable in cost……..The pant was in the same cotton as the solid jacket and went with all FOUR jackets in the group…..The last jacket at the upper right…….This was a FIELD JACKET, but done in an unusual fabric. It was a cross between a SATIN and a TAFFETA……..It had the hand, and substantial weight of a smooth satin, and the iridescence of a taffeta. The colors were DEEP MAGENTA and a color we called DEEP FAWN [a darker beige khaki]. It had two top patch pockets with buttoned flaps, but only buttoned flaps on the bottom with inseam pockets. It had body seams for shape so it could be worn with or without the self fabric belt. It had an interesting button placket front that stopped a few inches above the hem. The sleeves had pleats at the bottom that went into a buttoned shirt cuff…….However, it was the FABRIC that made these jackets super special. I still have them and they look as modern and edgy today as they did then.

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“MAY 08”

………..Another Anniversary! Eight Years!!!…….May 08 had a wonderful mix of individual pieces……..Starting at the top left was a 100% COTTON embroidered EYELET shirt. My sketch shows a short puff sleeve, but the sketch shows a longer 3/4 sleeve…….so I would guess the longer sleeve won out. It had a solid cotton collar, front button placket and cuff. According to the sketch the shirt had a V neckline that started buttoning part of the way down. I don’t remember if we kept that detail or made it a classic button front? The fabric was exceptional with lots of dimension from the emb….The colors were WHITE and BLACK. This was a wonderful Spring/Summer shirt…..The next 32 inch long, button front skirt had a back elastic. It was a SWING skirt…..great with summer sandals, wedges and espadrilles…..The fabric was a marvelous RAYON/NYLON blend and had a slight texture to it, but it was the iridescence of the nylon that made it new and fresh. Iridescent fabrics were a huge trend at the time, but I thought this was a timeless skirt and could be worn today, and look just as relevant and modern…The colors were ESPRESSO, INDIGO and CHINO. The next DRESS was also in an iridescent fabric….in a blend of poly/rayon/span. It was very light weight and very fluid. The rayon gave it a beautiful drape.. The colors were GRAPE, and PEWTER. The dress had a Safari look with the dropped yoke, short sleeve and breast pockets with flaps. It had a single tier at the bottom, and came with an optional self tie belt, but it had a wonderful easy look unbelted……..The two tops at the lower right were also in the iridescent Rayon/Nylon blend as the long skirt. They were both A-Line swing bodies, but not too much….just enough to keep them away from the body so they were nice and cool. The first sleeveless top had a cut in shoulder and an open neckline with a notched in V. There was a seam down the front which had a 1/2 inch top stitch detail. It had band pockets….It came in TURQUOISE, CHINO and ESPRESSO……The second sleeveless tunic had a fabulous COWL NECK. The sketch says it had band pockets, but they were erased so they may have been eliminated because the top came in WHITE, INDIGO and BRITE BLUE…….These were two of Jac’s favorite summer tops, and she always took them on trips. She wore them with leggings, and sandals, and some times with a very short cotton pencil skirt.. They were perfect for dinners in the Caribbean. The next shirt was Classic Louis…..It was in a cotton stretch shirting….It had an authentic trench coat collar and trench flap. It had body darts and a curved bottom. The sleeves were 3/4 length and had French cuffs. It even had epaulets! This was the kind of shirt you could wear with everything!……The next two pieces to the left were very ethereal…..The shirt and skirt were in poly chiffon and the very narrow banding was in poly charmeuse. These two pieces I would have to put in the headache category! Sewing those 3/8ths inch bands all over the constantly shifting georgette had to be sewn by very exacting patient workers. The shirt was on the short side. It had a small shirt collar and stand….a button front with a curved bottom. It had a yoke front and back and body seams front and back. The sleeve had some shirring in the cap to give it a vintage look……and it was banded ALL OVER as you can see in the sketch…….The georgette skirt had the same banding. It was a 33 inch long 8 gored pull-on skirt. Both pieces came in Black on Black and Off White with Black.

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“MAY 08 CON’T”

…………………..May 08 continued with some additional fun pieces….I always loved the DIP DYED process, and it is something you find at every price level….even expensive designer lines. The BIG SHIRT at the top was in Fuji Silk….It had a button front, a classic shirt collar and stand, with a 3/4 sleeve. It was an easy body with high side slits. It could easily be worn open with a tank. The colors were Off White/Purple, and Off White/Green. Since the silk dyes so beautifully the colors were very vivid and paled out to wonderful soft hues……The next top was a favorite of mine, but when any designer does these voluminous big tops it takes a certain woman who understands the look and isn’t intimidated by the size….What usually ends up happening is most size down, but the point of the design is compromised……c’est la vie. The top was made in a sheer crinkle chiffon, so it had a bit more body than a regular chiffon. It had a scoop neckline that could even be worn off one shoulder. The neckline may have been elastic but I can’t remember. I know the sleeve opening, even though it was loose, did have elastic. The neckline and the sleeve  elastics were covered in DTM poly charmeuse.. I know there was something under it but I don’t remember if we had a separate tank or partially lined the body….my guess is a separate tank in the poly charmeuse……Below this top is a STRETCH COTTON TWILL MINI DRESS…….It had lots of details starting with the exposed zipper front. It had 2 patch pockets with gold snaps and gold studs in the lower corners…..Above the pockets were exposed zipper pockets. I don’t remember if these were actual pockets or faux? There were also two additional studs on either side of the zipper at the top…..This could be worn as a dress or for those who thought it was too short could always wear it with a pair of Capri leggings…….To the left of this dress was another dress in SILK CREPE DE CHINE. It had an easy chemise body with 3/4 raglan sleeves, and band pockets. It had an interesting open neckline which had a separate frame [approx. 1 5/8 inches wide] that had a V notch. It was top stitched all around. What made the dress really interesting was the 7 1/2 inch contrast color hem. The colors came right from the Caribbean……..a MAGENTA body with HOT PINK border, A MARINE BLUE DRESS with an AQUA border and a FERN GREEN GREEN DRESS with a LIME border…..each was a beauty!!……..The next item was a slim ankle pant with little side slits, and a side zipper. It was a mid rise pant so it was below the natural waist line. The fabric was a beautiful silky stretch cotton in Ivory Chocolate and Pink……….The next item was a SILK SHANTUNG MANDARIN COLLAR JACKET with PATCH POCKETS. It had a button front placket, side slits and a high low hem line…….It came in three vivid colors LIME, HOT PINK and TANGERINE. This was a very popular jacket and was reordered the following year.

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“APRIL 08 DESIGNER DAY”

………………..The April 08 “Designer Day” event had many wonderful items. It really was a mixture from day to night……..Starting at the top left was a wonderful MILANO STITCH SWEATER JACKET. It was in a blend of acrylic/wool, It had an open stand collar, very Audrey Hepburn, and bracelet length sleeves. The body was A-line and it had horizontal band pockets……The collar, the front band, the bands on the sleeves and hem of the jacket were all in contrast colors. I had a very special button from my archives made. It was a combination of gold metal, black enamel with a dome pearl in the center. It was very expensive and brought the knit jacket to a higher level…..The colors were Ivory/Black and Red/Black…….The next item was a shirt dress in a very interesting new fabric. It almost looked like a chambray because it was in two colors. It had very very fine vertical  striations, and the fabric had a sheen…..The colors were Silver and Slate Blue. The dress was basically taken from my “Work Shirt” in Fuji silk, and made longer into a dress…..The next column of items were all related. At the top was a PAISLEY BROCADE DRESS…It had a funnel neck, short sleeves and Princess seams to create an Empire shape. Pockets were in the seams. The buttons were covered in the brocade. It was the Brocade fabric that made all of the difference. Due to the jacquard construction of the brocade it kept its’ A-Line shape beautifully….The Swing Brocade jacket also kept its’ beautiful shape because of the stiffness of the fabric, though it was very soft to the touch. It too had a funnel neckline, 3/4 sleeves and band pockets. The buttons were also covered in the self fabric. There was a matching pencil skirt with an elastic waist and back zipper. Both the dress and jacket had a retro look…..The brocade was very dimensional and the paisleys, which had fine metallic threads. looked raised. The colors were Ivory with Silver and a Pale Pink with Gold…..The scoop neck tank was also a lurex blend in the ivory/silver and pink/gold…………The next shirt was in SILK ORGANZA and had the most incredible embroidery on the front and sleeves. The leaves were in satin thread stitch but the CURRANT BERRIES were RAISED to look like actual berries. It came with a tank because silk organza is very sheer. It came in the Ivory or Black….both with the green leaves and red berries…….Another collector’s item, and not to be found anywhere today!……The next two pieces, the top and skirt, could be worn as a two piece dress or separately. These were two of Jac’s favorite pieces. The Ballet neck or Sabrina neck sleeveless top was in Rayon/Linen and it had a wide band at the bottom of DTM SHEER ORGANZA. It was short at 24 inches and the 3 1/2 border was slit to the Linen/Rayon portion. The skirt, in the same Linen/Rayon, also had a 3 1/2 inch of organza set in to the skirt approx. 5 inches up from the bottom of the 27 1/2 inch skirt. The skirt was a 3/4 circle with a side zipper and elastic at the back sides of the waist band…..The two pieces came in IVORY, BLACK and COCOA and Jac wore them all, but mostly the IVORY and BLACK……………..The final piece was a soft SAFARI blazer….soft because it was made in 100% TENCEL.. It was 28 inches long….it had 4 patch pockets and button flaps. The bottom pockets were side entry. It had elbow length sleeves and the cap had a box pleat to exaggerate the shoulder which already had a pad. It had classic 4 hole buttons with a thick rim DTM. The back had a yoke and three seams for shape. The front had body darts. It came in WHITE and KHAKI OLIVE.There was also a matching crop pant, but I don’t remember if it was bought.  This was the perfect summer jacket because you really didn’t need to wear anything under it, and the fabric of this unlined jacket was silky against the skin.

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