…………………The July 2001 group was inspired by Kilim rugs….their patterns and the colors…….Starting at the upper left is a Silk CD color block tunic shirt. In those days there were no minimums on how many colors you could do….There were 5 colors in this shirt….That would be impossible today unless it was a shirt well over $300 in silk.. The next sketch is that of my silk Kilim print tunic shirt. It came in two color combinations, and I have to say the quality of printing rivaled the factories in Italy. What many of the Italian companies did was make deals with these silk producing companies in China. If the Chinese factory kept supplying the Italian companies with the raw silk fabric unfinished [the Italians preferred to finish and print the fabrics themselves to get the hand exactly the way they wanted them], the Italians would send technicians over to the Chinese factories to teach them how to finish and print their own fabrics. I think the Italians were arrogant enough to think the Chinese could not ever come up to their standards and quality…..they were wrong……the Chinese learned QUICKLY! Years later when the Chinese government raised all of the prices of silk, even the raw silk, the Italians were screwed. To combat this the Italians opened secondary less expensive divisions. They sent the prints over to China and the Chinese printed them and shipped them back to Italy on the Chinese silk. Since it was a Chinese product it was much less expensive. These were half the price of the Italian “Couture” print lines. Anne Klein 11 bought some of these prints, but most were done directly in China. Anne Klein Couture stayed with the Italian Couture lines. What the Chinese lacked, and still lack is creativity where prints are concerned. At AK11 and at Lai Apparel we always sent the prints for them to copy and produce. They are excellent at that…. Next to that is a zig zag intargia sweater in cotton acrylic……..next a fabulous unlined suede jacket. All of the seams were CROCHETED together with a rayon yarn that had a sheen to it. These were very popular and were reordered a few seasons. I remember black with red and turquoise with rust being reorder colors……Next was a tunic shirt sweater in the cotton/acrylic, and next it’s companion short sleeve TN, my first twin set for QVC…LOL…..At the very bottom right is another random stripe silk shirt. [this may be a reorder from the previous years stripe shirt in new colors, memory fails]. There was also a long suede skirt [sketch #2], and a pair of pull-on knit pants and long straight knit skirt in colors to go with the group.
Those kilim inspired pieces are lovely. Fascinating to learn about some of the manufacturing. I would most definitely sign up if you taught an online class on design and textiles (MasterClass or something).
I have a biology degree and sometimes think about whether I could go back to school to focus on biotechnology in textiles.
Hi Louis and Linea ladies,
thanks for sharing the beautiful sketches of your early days on QVC. I also appreciate the information from behind the scenes for fabric and manufacturing. I enjoy wearing my Linea items – even if no one but me can see them in the current circumstances.
Happy New Year and wishing you well.
I have and still wear the terra-cotta Kilim tunic, one of my treasured Linea silks. I’ve given away more than I’ve kept, but this one was a definite keeper. It’s like wearing air. I visited Istanbul many years ago and sent back some rugs. One of them is done in silk on cotton in colors very similar to that tunic. I also brought back some “crocheted” suede tops that were so unique. I, too, love all their museums–the Silk Road tollbooths. They bagged some great stuff!
What a lovely walk down memory lane, I remember seeing many of these items. Thank you for sharing your insider’s knowledge on how the clothing and textile manufacturing industry has changed over the years and how it works today… I found it very interesting.
Fascinating reading to learn about the business behind the clothes. I, too, wish I had found Linea earlier, but your sketches and descriptions bring them to me in a way I am thoroughly enjoying.
I have one of the Kilim tunic shirts and it is still one of my favorites of all time. Didn’t realize how long I’ve had it. Reminded me of living in Istanbul for a couple years in my youth.
Sorry anonymous is Lisa
Istanbul…..how fabulous. There are such incredible museums there.
The clothes are so vibrant and lovely! I found your history of the silk industry so interesting. I have been on a buying frenzy getting my Linea whisper knits, blazers, and skirts before too late. Given your lengthy career and knowledge gathered over the years, do you have any suggestions for how clothing manufacturing can be revived in the United States?
Dear Melanie, unfortunately that time has passed. The costs, salaries of workers, importing fabrics from foreign countries [other than denim there is very little fabric produced in this country, again due to competition and cost]. So all that and more make it impossible for the US garment industry to come back. Those factories were closed many many years ago and have been sold off. There are also no skilled workers left to manufacture in different factories. There are no print mills left or dyers. Most fabrics that I used came from China, Taiwan and South Korea, all of which make very good quality solid fabrics. S. Korea is excellent at printing and some of our more difficult prints were done there, but they were more expensive. All of the ombre prints were done there because there were so many screens involved and they were difficult to print. When I was with Anne Klein all of the Couture was produced in either the US or Italy. ALL of AK11 was produced in China, but the AK11 apparel was made beautifully. Remember, the Chinese have centuries of experience making apparel. There were times when I thought the AK11 apparel made in China was better made than the AK Couture made in the US. I was not happy about that, especially when we had to show an American factory the superior workmanship out of a Chines factory!!!!Let’s be real the American customer will only pay so much, and not more. The Linea customers for the most part are the exception. They want quality and good workmanship and most are willing to pay more. That said many customers still complained about the price of the clothing. Now that Linea has come to an end. I can say that there were many many times the buyers didn’t like the price that we quoted and came back with their own price. In order to meet these prices I took a cut in my commission and Elaine took a cut in her measly profit. From the beginning of Linea my commissions continued to be cut, and Elaine cut her profits to meet QVC’s demands. At a certain point Elaine came out even or even took a loss, just to keep the factories working. The Chinese workers have changed too. 20 years ago they were paid very little. Of course prices in China were very low so their expenses were low. Unless you lived near the factory you work in you lived in large dormitories for men and women so they would be near the factory. They used bicycles to go back and forth, and ate at the dormitories in the cafeterias. They only went home for major holidays like Chinese New Year which was a full month. Eventually, the workers of each town would compare notes. A conversation went like this….”How much do you make, I make such and such. Come back to my factory where you will make more”. The factory owners never knew how many workers would return after these holidays! The owners were being forced to raise the wages to keep the workers. Naturally this reflected the the garment prices. China is not considered an inexpensive place to produce anymore. Many companies are going to Vietnam and other south east Asian countries, India and even south America to get cheaper prices, but the quality just isn’t good. We tried a few simple garments and stopped. In order to manufacture in these countries you have to use their fabrics to maintain prices. The minute you have to import fabrics the prices go way up. There are some companies like Johnny Was that have cultivated a small group of factories, I believe in India, to manufacture their apparel…..I’ve just given you a lesson on manufacturing price sensitive apparel. High end is another story. There are reasons why designer apparel is in the thousands of dollars, but it is sold to less than 1% of the American women.
I find your post really interesting! I doubt many of us knew this, at least I didn’t. Seems these days a lot of people (including me) try to buy American-made products because so much junk comes from China nowadays. Unsafe and poor quality products, generally speaking of course. Clothing like yours being the exception. And I think a lot of people envision slave labor and such. But for many products we don’t have much of a choice if we don’t have the factories and the workers here. At least they started paying the Chinese workers more.
I hope my comment isn’t misconstrued at all. I was trying to be brief. You just gave me a different perspective and realization of the industry.
As a follow up…..Mass. used to be a major shoe manufacturing state, and R.I used to make fashion jewelry and precious metal jewelry. Today the shoe industry doesn’t exist. The US companies couldn’t compete with South America, Spain and China…..The fashion and fine jewelry too couldn’t compete. Today the main offices are still in R.I. but only the business of ordering and shipping is done from these companies. Some still have workers to create the first samples, for instance the Couture pieces, the lux links, the Samburu group, the compass and many other first samples were made by these artisans from materials supplied by China [beads etc.] When I approved the samples they were sent to China for pricing and eventually production, but there is no production done in R.I anymore. You would have to quadruple the price of these items to cover the costs and make some profit. When I first started making jewelry for Anne Klein some 40 years ago all of the AK jewelry was produced in R.I, and it continued to be until I left AK in 92. Shortly after that they too had to switch production to China.The cost of living in this country makes it absolutely necessary to pay higher wages to American workers, and they still can’t make ends meet. This country can only compete in the tech world and that too is being challenged, as more and more of it is made in China. It’s not China’s fault. Where would we get the things we need at REASONABLE prices. I’d like to know…..I’d shop there.
Totally fascinating as well as informative. You, certainly, teach us! Most of us have no idea regarding the production end, yes, we know they are made in China but little else. I appreciate your taking the time to explain and what is involved and what the differences are. You have most certainly added to my education and I thank you for that. I would love to know about the shoes that you made for Anne Klein. I had a few pairs many years ago made in Italy, they were like butter!
I remember being told years ago, up to the 1950’s that the Paris couture houses were subsidize and backed by the fabric houses. I found that to be fascinating! I never knew if that was true because it came from Charles James. I never understood QVC’s position regarding your restrictions on pricing when we were more than happy to keep the quality even with a price increase. I did see other vendors had some higher priced items but not of your quality let alone designs. To me it never made sense, especially if you had a loyal consistent following, an almost built in market.
I’m on a first name basis with my delivery man because of the steady stream of Linea purchases that are arriving, almost on a daily basis. I have not completed my list as yet! Thank you! Cat
Dear Cat….The Anne Klein Couture and the Anne Klein 11 shoe collections were all made in Italy. Schwartz and Benjamin was the name of the company that had the AK licenses. They had a relationship with a shoe designer named Andrea Pfister, and hired him to help develop the shoe lines.. His shoes were fabulous and were carried in all the major upscale department store and shoe boutiques. You may recall me saying I used to go to Positano, Italy twice a year to work on the AK shoe collections. It was heaven on earth!!!!I went there for 18 years straight. Jac would join me in the early summer a few days before I “had” to go and work with Andrea developing the collection. We would have a mini vacation and had a fabulous time with Andrea and his partner Jean Pierre. Went the Schwartz and Benjamin group arrived it was back to work and Jac would lounge by the pool where we would meet up for a long lunch and a swim, and lots of cold white wine. It was always hard to get back to work in our bathing suits after lunch but the show must go on!!!!!. I went back to work with Andrea in late Oct, and it was still warm enough to have lunches and breakfast on the veranda. Unfortunately Andrea passed away two months after Jac. I never told him Jac was sick, because he too had cancer, and really why upset him. He would find out soon enough in heaven……Charles James was absolutely correct. The French, Italian, and all the “Couture ” designers from different countries had symbiotic relationships with the most expensive fabric companies in France, Italy and Switzerland. These companies worked directly with the designers creating the most luxurious fabrics the world has ever seen. It certainly was the fabric companies advantage to get into the creative minds of these renowned designers. Of course the fabrics developed were exclusive to the designer for the season. Later the fabric companies would make versions for the open market….still at exorbitant prices, but this is how they made money. The designer got the sample fabrics for free, and in return they did enormous fashion spreads with the name of the fabric company at the bottom of the page. These ads were all paid by the fabric companies. So it worked well for both. If the couture designs sold then the fabric companies would make addition money on the fabric orders. I think it went beyond the 50’s because I remember seeing in European Fashion magazine like L’Official these ads. Certain European fashion magazine would come out with special “Couture” issues that would cover every country that had any couture designers, and they each had a section in the mag. There was a section for Spanish designers, German, English etc., but it was the French and Italians that had the biggest sections with photos from the show and many many pages of these add….They even covered the American Couture which was very small…The magazines made a fortune with all of the advertising from the fabric companies….I never understood QVC’s restriction on the prices for my collection especially when the more expensive items like the suede and emb. jacket always sold well. I noticed they have a new designer who’s clothes are over $100 and up who seems to have sold well. Of course that could be deceiving because you never know how much was bought of these items. The higher the cost the less the lower the minimums to produce.
Louis, thank you so much for the detailed explanation regarding the fabric manufacturers subsidizing the Couture collections. My Jimmie worked for Charles James for 6 years in the 1950’s……….he was back of the house, payroll, scheduling shows, paying bills, making sure all was kept running, delivering dresses, even dealing with the lawsuit! He said it was one of the most important times in his life and an education like no other. He was, always, grateful for the time spent with Charles. The stories he could tell, the same as you!
How fortunate you were able to design and create at a time when it was welcome and appreciated and the industry was at it’s creative peak. It’s so very different these days.
Yes, I remember your speaking of Andrea and Jean Pierre and their beautiful home and how they were with you and Jac for your wedding. I appreciate your responding to my questions and love your wealth of knowledge as well as your willingness to share and educate us. You are a treasure! as always, Cat
Cat, if you would like to see Andrea’s villa it is now a luxury rental. You can google “Villa Lily” in Praiano Italy. They take you on a video tour. Not much has changed. They made his second floor studio with the three arched windows into a gathering room where they have a pool table! They divided the room and made a bedroom and the gathering room. Andrea must be turning over in his grave! Oh that he can’t be doing because he and Jean Pierre were both cremated and there ashes where thrown together into the water from their villa. Anyway some of the furnishings are the same, and you will see the bathroom with the huge glass arched window in the sunken tub that was Jac and my bathroom. The most incredible view form any bathroom I have ever been in!!!The ancient tower by the pool Andrea converted into a second floor bedroom with a bathroom on the first floor. All of the outside furniture is the same!
Louis, stunningly beautiful! The views take your breath away, each room is more lovely than the next, the grounds, so wonderful to explore……………a dream come true. How wonderful that you and Jac were able to spend time in this paradise with friends who were so much a part of your life. It had to be a house filled with love, joy, laughter, wine, fabulous food and the wonder of Italy……… This is a link, it is an 8 minute video of the inside and all the grounds and outside, too. You might wish to make a little visit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfLd-YyyTHo I will say my visit enhanced my day! Thank you…………..Cat
Wow – I certainly have learned something today. Thank you for sharing this knowledge with us and making us understand things a bit more.
Thank you for providing such detailed information. Very interesting indeed! I appreciate the time you took to respond.
Melanie, I think people should really understand why so many product are made in China. We’re forced to go there to get prices people are willing to spend. Made in the USA is great, but for many products it just isn’t realistic. People blame businesses for going to China, but it’s because of those same people that they have to. They would complain through the roof if they had to pay higher prices. I don’t blame them with the amount or lack of money Americans make today. If there were a choice trust me we wouldn’t be going to China, but they happen to make the best product for the money. Elaine tried other countries, but the quality was so inconsistent she gave the projects up.
Loving these designs! I didn’t “know” you in 2001. Oh, for those suede skirts and jackets!
Christine, I was thinking the same thing! I’m sad that I missed the early days of Linea. Oh, how I would love to have those suede pieces.
I still have the suede skirt and jacket in a solid camel color. Still perfect, and I wear them frequently. These are among my favorite Linea pieces. Outstanding separates – amazing quality!
How interesting to read about the silk companies and how it affected the industry. Those printed blouses look beautiful! I want one of those twinsets and suede jackets!! 😊