“SEPTEMBER 09”

………………..I would like to start with the jacket and coordinating skirt at the bottom left. These two pieces were the closest I ever came to doing “Couture” for Linea. I would have made these pieces exactly the same if I had designed them for Anne Klein. What makes them “Couture”? The amount of labor, detail, tailoring, hand sewing and materials involved are just some of the things that make up a couture garment…and these pieces had all the boxes checked. The jacket was made in what now had become my “signature” boucle. Absolutely no one at QVC ever came close to trying to duplicate it…..frankly it was too expensive for them. The jacket had SIX shaping seams in the front, and SIX shaping seams in the back to give me the shape I wanted. It had a small demure collar with rounded points, and the sleeve had a cuff that also had rounded corners at the split. There were pocket flaps, but the actual pockets were in the seams…..The jacket had tiny faceted buttons down the front and on the pocket flaps….they were DTM the jacket colors…..ALL OF THE BLACK STRIPES in the sketch were SATIN!!!!!…..The collar, down the front, the  hem and cuffs were bordered with SATIN PIPING. The satin fabric covering each and every seam were first pre made into  narrow satin strips that had turned edges ready for sewing. This stripping was made into yardage. These strips were then sewn on top of each seam!!! This was EXACTING COUTURE WORK…..Elaine looked at these sketches and said “the factory will never make these complicated jackets….they will refuse….we’re not in the “designer” business”. How many times did I hear that from Elaine! She saw big head aches ahead! I said well let’s send the sketch with my speck sheets and see what they say. They said nothing and made the jacket and skirt samples…..When I saw them I was astounded!!! They were magnificent….and still at a price point that QVC would accept. The skirt, made in the same boucle, had  EIGHT GORES. Each seam had the satin strips on either side of the seam,  but they were kissing. Toward the bottom of the skirt the seams separated and a godet of georgette was inserted, so when you walked the the slits opened revealing the georgette and a hint of leg….It was a fabulous skirt and an incredible suit. It came in all Black or Forest Green……….The jacket and pant above were also very special. They were made in my new crepe with the satin back. This fabric was perfect for tailoring. It sewed beautifully and every detail was shown to perfection. It had a narrow shawl collar and a four button front that were positioned so it wasn’t necessary to wear anything under it if you so chose. It was lined in satin. Each seam and body dart were top stitched which added a dress maker look. However, it was the satin bows on the pockets that really added that dressmaker feminine look. These bows were not separate bows that were just sewn on top of the pockets….they were part of the construction of the patch. I don’t remember exactly how they were done, but the satin created a band at the top, and a band of the crepe was sewn on top holding the satin in place to create the bow…..so the satin was on the outside and inside of the pocket….If that weren’t enough I inserted a faux belt of satin in the back between the two princess seams. This was more complicated than you would think with all of the other top stitched seams….Another shake your head jacket for Elaine…LOL….At least the pants were simple!………..The blouse was in a satin charmuse….It was very romantic and had the look of a heroine in a period English book. It had a small demure collar, and a button placket front. The buttons were tiny pearl. It had a front and back yoke with shirring and the 3/4 sleeve ended with shirring going into a buttoned band…..What made this blouse very special was the wide band of SMOCKING at the waist creating a soft shirred bottom and body of the blouse. I realized this blouse wasn’t for everyone when I designed it, but I always felt nothing I designed, except for maybe a tee, was for everyone. It came in a beautiful Antique Rose and Ink, and Pearl color.

This Post Has 12 Comments

  1. Heidi

    It’s so much fun to see all of these beautiful collections before I discovered you. I so wish these items were available now – they’re timeless and would be welcome additions to my closet!

  2. Karen in WI

    Oh the suit in black and that oh so feminine top in pink and pearl for me! By the way, I usually do not wear pink as I have red in my auburn hair, but I did get the pleated pink blouse and just wore it this past weekend with the slim gray pointe pant. My husband stopped and said that he doesn’t know what I am thinking when I say pink is not my color because I was “workin it walking around in that flowy pink blouse”! He still makes me blush!

  3. Mary

    So did I!!

  4. Michelle

    Another gorgeous collection. Add me to the “really sorry I was late to the Linea party” list. This suit and the suede jacket are spectacular. And I will always be sad that they are not hanging in my closet.

  5. Barbara in Virginia

    I wish I could go back and purchase some things I didn’t get the first time around! My size was changing from my earlier Linea Small to a Medium, and I had much to replenish. I had just bought the recent Boucle Anne Klein inspired jackets in both Black and Rose so I didn’t think I needed more boucle when this beauty and its skirt came around. Dommage….Those jackets were roomy on me when I first bought them but now have a closer fit. Now why does our size need to change with age?!!!!

  6. Cela

    Well, well , well what do you know? The skirt you describe Louis is just like the one hanging in my closet,
    It is an unusual design I’ve never seen before. My skirt is part of a suit also but instead of the banding, it had a “western” look with frayed georgette around the sleeves, bottom of the jacket, lapel and the skirt godets.
    It is a gorgeous blush color and has top stitching one inch around all the borders of the jacket and the peplum. That’s what I think makes it a little “cowgirl”
    From Northfork. The absolute thing that makes this suit Divine is the label which says Anne Klein. And since I’ve had this suit many years, more than I want to say, could it have maybe been a design by LDO?

    1. Louis Dell'Olio

      Cela….after 40 plus years I don’t remember it, but it sound very likely that it was mine.

      1. Cela

        But that is my exact spruce multi jacket, and my spruce bodysuit. Such a cute bodysuit in both spruce and navy. I had to put a pin in front. But now with Kim Kardashians “Body (boobie) tape” maybe not!

        1. Louis Dell'Olio

          Cela….boobie tape has been around a long time….models used to use it for very plunging tops. Jac had a couture YSL long dress in black silk matte jersey Basically it had two trips of fabric that came up from the waist band and created a halter. Not that she need boobie tape, but she used it on that dress…..sometimes!

  7. Nan

    What an amazing collection !!!
    That was unfortunately before
    I was tuned in to you on qvc.

  8. Irene

    Diddo !!!

  9. Somersault

    WOWZA!!!!!!!!! That suit is to die for! Beautiful. I missed out on so much!

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