……………….As August is here, and summer will soon come to an end, I can’t help but look back at my incredible days working one summer at the great designer house of Norman Norell…….Norman Norell was called the “Dean Of American Fashion”……He was born on April 20th, 1900 in Noblesville, Indiana. His name was Norman David Levinson of the Utilarian faith. He left his home town when he was 19 in 1919, and became a fashion illustration student at Parsons School of Design, and later went to Pratt Institute for Fashion Design……During his early years he became a costume designer for silent films, and he designed clothes for Gloria Swanson, who would become a life long customer. He changed his name to……NORMAN NORELL. He dominated American fashion during the mid 20th century. He was the first American designer to launch his own perfume in 1968. I bought the original perfume for my mother, and I still have the original bottle and box, and it still smells wonderful! It was and is my all time favorite fragrance…….He was know for his spectacular gowns, his beautifully tailored suits, coat and dresses, and he was one of the first Americans to use wool jersey……He was the first recipient of the “Fashion Critics Award” later to be called the “Coty Award”. He was also the first designer to be inducted into the “Coty Hall Of Fame”. He has a brass plaque with a sketch of his and his name embedded into the side walk on 7th Ave….He was also one of the founders of “The Fashion Designers of America”which I have been a member of for over 45 years…..He was a member of the Parsons School of Design Board of Trustees, and was a teacher and design critic mentoring many students. I was privileged to receive The Norman Norell Scholarship for my third year at Parsons. He was also my critic and teacher….something I will never forget. He would sometime visit the school on east 53rd street and the east river unannounced just to see what we were up to, and if he could help with anything! He also paid for all of the fabric we would use designing our Norell critic garment.Years later when I became a critic and mentor for the new young talent….there was a large portrait of Mr. Norell hanging in the large room where the students and critic would meet to look at their school projects on a model, to discuss them and fit them…I always loved seeing that portrait…..It brought back such great memories……I thought he was the greatest…………….The ICONIC photo above is of Mr. Norell and 4 of his favorite models. Claudia, his muse is at the far right……..He was also a great admirer of Kees van Dongen, a Dutch/French painter who was one of the leading Fauves. Mr Norell loved his portraits of the women with the blackened eyes, white skin and red lips. He owned I think three of them including the one they are standing in front of…..This is exactly how he wanted HIS “Cabine of Models” to look.. He only used six models, and each did their hair and make up almost exactly the same…….white skin, slick back hair, red lips and blackened eyes with 2 or 3 pairs of false eyelashes. When I did my internship at Mr. Norell’s in the summer of 1966 I met his current group of models…….Claudia, Yvonne, Irene, Stephanie, Dianne [if memory serves]. He also used one blond who also wore her hair back with the same eye make up and red lip.. When the girls arrived in the morning it was my job to bring them a cup of coffee in china cups and saucers. I soon remembered how each liked it. They though this 18 year old boy from Long Island was adorable They would tease me, and they made me blush many times. These models were not young, but it was hard to guess there ages with all of that make up. They were WOMEN not girls….I remember one morning Claudia coming in very early for a writing appointment. This is when the buyers would come in and write their orders after seeing the clothes again on a model. She came in wearing a head scarf a la Audrey Hepburn, and very large black sunglasses. I immediately brought her coffee…….BLACK…….This was the first time that I had seen Claudia without any make up, and I was shocked. She was no beauty, as a matter of fact very plain looking. About an hour later I had to go back into the models room when others had arrived, and Claudia was transformed into this exotic beautiful creature. I think that was my first lesson on what make up could do!!!!……..The models room was a little treasure box. The floors were large black and white diamond tiles which were the same tiles as the entrance to the Norell lobby when you got off the elevator. Each model had her own station with a directors chair with her name on it, a white make up table and a long high mirror with light bulbs surrounding it. Next to the table was a cubby where her clothes, and the clothes, shoes and accessories she was to put on were housed…….It was truly magical. I was so naive I though every fashion house was like this……NOT………I will always love and admire Mr. Norell for his kindness, and for taking the time to speak and advise this wide eyed and impressionable young man.
Your and NORMAN NORELL’s fashion career is interesting! The photographs are beautiful!
Thank you
Louis, I really enjoy reading your blog. I learn so much from you! Your time with Mr. Norell’s company sounds so wonderful for a young man to experience! What wonderful memories for you. Thank you for sharing with us. Small town Wisconsin is far away from New York City in more than one way, so it is all even more glamorous for me to hear about!
On another note, I scored your malachite wool blend blazer in a size medium and will get it altered to fit me. I have your teal one and it is my favorite blazer and doubles so nicely as a fall jacket. The malachite is such a pretty color! Your blazers are truly special, Louis.
Karen. I’m happy to hear you are enjoying my posts……Enjoy your new jacket…it is a beauty.
Karen in WI,
Where did you find the blazer? I want to try to get it also
Which jacket are you referring to? The Norell Merlot jacket is on Etsy under “Norell vintage”, and the jacket was under $500
Nikki, if you are referring to the malachite blazer, I got it on Poshmark. Good luck!
Hugs to you Louis! Can you believe summer is winding down and your trip is almost here?
Fabulous story. I could not stop reading it. Thank you so much for continuing my fashion history training.
Reading this article brought me right back to the early 1970’s going to school at Tobe Coburn on Madison & 70th Street right above the Yves St Laurent boutique. My aspiration was to go into fashion merchandising/ retail at one of the “great” stores.
As a young girl from a family of modest means, my enjoyment was to walk the streets of Manhattan window shopping to great designer houses. Halston was on Madison at the corner in the 60’s.
Your story of Norman Norrell took me right back to those days.
I too bought to fragrance and loved it.
He was an elegant man who designed gorgeous clothes of sophisticated women.
Those days seems so long ago.
Truly enjoyed reading your account of your days at the house of Norell. The accompanying photos were wonderful too. I agree with you, it is sad when past history of any industry, country or people is ignored. We can learn from history. Thanks for your “look back Thursdays”, Louis.