…………………………Ivory is a very rich flattering color. Its’ soft warmth looks wonderful next to most complexions. A true ivory is a clear, clean color like whipped cream. I usually saved optic white for late spring and the summer months when the sun is strongest. Optic white looks best in cottons and linens…………The Silk Cloque suit to the left is an elongated jacket. I hesitate calling it a topper because that connotes outerwear which it is not as the silk fabric was light weight. It is fitted to the upper waist and then follows the lines of the body and gently A’s out from the hip down. There are three silver bean buttons to close the jacket. The cluster earrings are made of pearls and silver beads…………The fabric of the RIBBON, COTTON and WOOL blazer was made for me by Tissage de Chaumes in France. It’s a very subtle hounds tooth check pattern due to the combination of Ivory and White. It’s a classic blazer with a notched lapel, single button front and pockets with top flaps…..I loved working with this company. They did most of the original Chanel tweeds and later with Karl Lagerfeld. They worked together until the company closed it doors…..They made their own novelty yarns and dyed them. They wove the fabrics on old large wooden looms…I would discuss an idea with them or show them fabrics and colors I was working with, and they would go and collect different yarns in different colors for us to select and play with. Then they would make hand looms to send to me in the US to choose from….It was usually a difficult choice because they were all beautiful…It truly was a French confection…Many companies tried to copy the Tissage de Chaume fabrics but they never looked as rich or as intricate…..The short sleeve shell underneath is made in a beautiful Ivory lace also from France. There was a matching skirt, but the Ivory Cloque skirt also worked as a separate………………I used the clear resin and PEARL earrings and stick pin to adorn the outfit……..Though you can’t see them, both models were wearing the “birdcage” strappy pump in ivory. Just as a point of reference the “ribbon” blazer was approx. $820, and that was 30 years ago. In today’s market you can easily put a 2 in front of that number.
Louis, I love these outfits! The fabric is gorgeous.
I’m curious. You’ve said in the past that Karl L/Chanel had brought some of these small companies in house to not lose the expertise. Did they do that with Tissage du Chaume? Or were their doors closed and that was the end of the story?
Dear Michelle. Lagerfeld, actually the Chanel Co under his advisement bout companies that made embroideries like the famous Lasage Co….a company that was know for its’ silk flowers and a shoe company and others. These were the absolute best in France. I don’t know all of the companies they bought, or if they kept them after his death. Unfortunately, Tissage was not one of them. The owner died and the company closed.