Designer

……………….For every collection I ever designed, and for every season, I always had either leather or suede pieces………Even for summer I did suede strips crocheted into tanks, tank dresses and pull-on skirts…….For this collection I used  special HIGH SHEEN aniline leathers from Italy. I repeated the new silhouettes of the jackets, pants and skirts, and interpreted them in leather……The pants had a new special STRETCH process that became very popular in the following years……..Carla Bruni, to the left, had on an elongated fit and flare single breasted coat/jacket over a knit dress and an enameled black link belt….Sarah O’Hare was wearing the short double breasted jacket with a long jersey skirt that had sheer georgette godets. Black suede boots for both….the cuff hat and leather gloves completed the looks.

……………………The “BLAZER COAT”, on Christy, in the heavier weight wool crepe, is actually an oxymoron, because it isn’t meant to be an outwear coat, but worn as an elongated jacket…..though in the proper weather it COULD easily be worn as a coat….I always loved double purpose garments….The lighter weight wool crepe wide leg pant had a beautiful drape, and movement that allowed it to work with the elongated jacket……….The black jet glass “BIB” is the perfect backdrop showing off the long pointed collar! The obligatory cap and gloves finish the look.

………………….Creating a new jacket is more than just the silhouette, though that is the most important aspect…..It’s the DETAILs that make the difference!……This wool Barathea jacket starts with the elongated collar attached to a small narrow lapel. The three button front ends with an extended tab continuing into a CUTAWAY bottom….The sleeves also continue the detail of the extended tab with five glass jet buttons to match the three buttons down the front…….The classic flap pockets give the jacket a familiar classicism……..It is always…..”ALL IN THE DETAILS”……. that separates EVERYTHING!

………………..For my 1993 Fall collection I liked to mix different fabrics in one outfit……Different fabrics in one outfit wasn’t a new concept….but…it’s the particular different fabrics, and how they are used that adds the newness………The shaped four button jacket was in wool Barathea….but it was the SHEER WOOL GAUZE swing skirt that added the unexpected drama….Sheer played an important part in the fall collect of 1993……Sheer has to be done right for it to be accepted, especially when it’s for day wear otherwise it’s considered for the runway only……These pieces were well accepted due to their versatility. They could easily be worn day or night with a casual sweater or a beaded top…….Today, 30 years later, mixing fabrics has become commonplace………It takes fabulous new fabrics, and a wonderful imagination to make it fresh!

………………………Merry Merry Christmas……….A Christmas tradition handed down to me by Jac and her Mom, and her Mom’s Mom and so forth is making a Stollen on Christmas Eve, and cooking it Christmas Day for breakfast. It takes the whole day to prepare the dough…..MACE and CURRANTS….are the secret ingredients!……After many rises and lots and lots of kneading it is ready to form the bread….Jac always told me, as I helped her to knead the dough….” when you think you have kneaded the dough enough…..knead it some more!”…..Then you make nine balls of dough…Four large ones, three medium sized ones, and two smaller ones…As you roll each ball out to make long ropes you add the currants and roll each rope in them….Then you start to braid. This was something Jac always asked me to do, because she just couldn’t get the knack of it. The braiding was something her Mom always did, and now it was my job. After the first four ropes were braided, you did the same process with the three ropes and then the two ropes….always rolling them in currants. Then you piles each braid on top of one another [photos at lower left], and cover it with dish towels, and put in a warm place to rise over night…..On Christmas morning, if all went well, the bread has risen [middle picture] to double the size if not more. Then place it in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes at 350 degrees on the middle rack, and let it cook until it’s a golden brown. Stick in a tooth pick to make sure it’s cooked through and through, and then take out. Immediately baste the entire bread with melted butter. I usually use 3/4s of a stick….yummy……….When it has cooled enough, sprinkle powered sugar all over……..Jac used to call this “snow on the mountain”…….Then it’s ready to slice and eat!…….I had two big slices this morning….one for me and one for Jac! I don’t think she would have been happy with my gluttony!!!!! It came out perfectly……….One thing I know for sure….I know she is very proud of me for carrying on the tradition!……..Merry Christmas EVERYONE!